FOW – Page 10 – lighteffect.net

June 12, 2011

Operation “Get cracking!” Pt 3

After working on the trial figures I re thought the order I’m working in with colours.

What drove this was the realisation that the leather strap on the US helmet needs painted to make the figures look great.
Also the brown colours typically but up to other colours that makes painting rifles in hands difficult.

So order is :

base : spray paint Dunkelgelb
Brown: boots, rifles, SMG’s, entrenching tools, pistol holsters and the helmet strap.
Khaki: Webbings, water bottle, some pistol holsters.
Olive green/grey: Knee, elbow patches and bags.
Black: Weapons metal. Boot soles, knife handles.
Flesh tone: Flesh
Olive Drab: Helmets and some pouches
Magic wash: all except for flesh.
Magic flesh wash: rose tinted wash to flesh.

So lets see how it goes.

Oh .. I have two mortars to be custom made.. as I seem to be short both of them and scavenge 5 x 30 cal Mg’s
This is what you get for buying second hand.

Bye for now

June 12, 2011

Operation “Get Cracking” Pt 2

Well I finished two test solders/figures.
You will notice this is a habit I have started now when prepping to to do a production line of figures… I suggest this to anyone thinking of painting a platoon or more of figs… paint a couple from start to finish and get the process right and change things.

This one was good.. I changed my usual order in which the flesh gets painted. I do however have to change my formula for the dark or ink wash. I’m still getting bath rings forming on my wash. Dish wash soap doesn’t seem to help. I’m thinking the magic wash is going to have to be tried again.. although I will need to buy some “Klear floor” polish first.

So… here is the first wash over the spray coat of desert yellow. This is a pretty dark wash of Khaki by Tamiya liberally applied over

so here is a comparison photo of the finish

I then jumped ahead and painted boots and wood, webbing’s (khaki), helmet (olive drab), elbow and knee knee patches and bags (olive green) and flesh, I then fished the guns and binoculars in black.
The black wash followed (which didn’t smooth very well.

here is the eye candy..

So the result is that the was darkens the base colour too much over all and needs a wash of almost equal colour.. but tinted so that the shadow will sit in the low spots. Of course a dry brush would solve this.. but I’m hoping to avoid it.

May 31, 2011May 31, 2011

Show us your legs – Pt 2 – The incriminating photos

OK as promised some (actually alot!) pictures of my DIY build a set of game table legs

Chiseling the hinge rebutment in.

Almost finished legs and stanchions…

Work bench and tools.. the bench is a bit flimsy and i had to work into the wall when using the mallet… to keep it all steady.. but a suitable work bench non the less. I’m working in a well lit car port beside the garage

Setting the hinges. Later found I did this wrong… you need to set the pivot outside of the face.. to sit proud.. otherwise the legs wont close flat. I now need to chisel the in side face to allow the legs to close. And get BIG hinges. The distance from face to first fixing hole is what is important.

Using the completed hing or top rail as a template for the remaining three

Almost finished sections, note the hollow core doors in back ground… they will be the table tops.
Also note all the half joints I made. 16 in all. Plus 8 recesses or cut-in joints.

Getting set to assemble. I decided not to use dowel joints.. and I decided not to use bolt joints (even though i bought bolts! I ended up with 4 posi-drive square head screws per half joint. No glue.. even though I intended to… I’m such a hypocrite to my own ideas of perfection!

Screws and corded rope (not sash cord) 6mm thick cord.. 10m long and pretty cheap too. Thanks Zeneth corporation!

Tenon saw required… cut a slope to the feet… no special measuring but no un-accurate either — but doesn’t answer why one leg is 5mm shorter than all the other seven?

Dummy set up… and the timber I decided to put it together too… the timber work passed muster

A side shot of the half joints..a little rough… but still pass in High School classes all the same

Assembly… started with the lower cross rail. I “starter-hole” drilled these and counter sunk the hole with 8mm drill.. because the screws were 50mm screws and the needed to reach the timber into which they have to hold

Then I plain drove the posidrives into the half joints.. two on diagonals on one side and opposite orientation on the other.. I had two joins feign splitting… ouch

All frames assembled.. looks great

Set the frames out head to head to fix hinges… I would have been clever to leave about 5mm between the heads at this stage.. but I was too eager to some chisel work re reset the pins into the frame faces..which in retrospect was a really really really clever idea… NOT.

In the pic above… I have screwed the hinges in with the 30mm posi-drives.
The timber is ceiling batten timber… It is 37mm thick… the screws counter sink themselves.. I had a few poke the points through the other side.. so be aware that posidrives will sink up to 3mm into soft wood.

Finished legs.. here they are doing the Ruhmba… and the Tango.. lets face it they were made for each other.

And here they are supporting a pair of lazy teenager doors… they jut tend to lay around at present.. but when they mature and loose all their disgusting piercings and hardware.. the will be strong supporting members of the war games table community.. but that is another story…

hope you enjoyed this.. G night.